If you’re in DC, you have a penchant for off-the-beaten-path dives, you’re obsessed with flavor & kicked-up Asian soup, and you’ve got some time on your hands, head to Toki Underground in the H St. Corridor. This restaurant embodies that cartoonish alt/punk tradition of East Asia while serving up the most satisfying bowl of ramen I’ve ever had the pleasure of inhaling. The broth, the star, is opaque, textured and complex, as if infused with smoke, and it is complemented with a range of team players: fragrant pickled ginger that surprises the palate, a sizable chunk of pulled pork that holds on to that broth like it’s the last thing it’s got, and a slow-poached egg that is so delicate and gelatinous, you could drink it with a bendy straw, white and all. Toki occupies a small second-level space, so diners are slurping their noodles shoulder to shoulder in a growth of Kawaii icons (a kind of cuteness overload in Japanese pop culture) and Zen hardwood fixtures while only the freshest hip-hop emanates from nowhere. But you’ll only touch all this, though, after enduring a two hour wait in the bar below. So grab a friend and a beer: it’ll be the most rewarding two hours you’ve ever spent.